Compass

Food to Dine for

Tucked away on the Upper West Side is a gem of a restaurant, Compass. I hadn't been back since Thanksgiving 2005 and was pleasantly surprised at the improvements. Of course this may have to do with me dining with my friend Jeremy who knows most everyone in the NYC restaurant business. We were treated like royalty. The amuse bouche was actually a trio of tasty treats: a sweetened little wafer of lean beef on a squared toast, a creme fraiche with truffles in a Parmesan crisp cup and, my favorite, an oyster with cucumber gelatin topped with a dollop of creme and caviar. The cucumber flavor refreshingly balanced the contrasting saltiness of the caviar and sea-sweet salt of the oyster all smoothed with the light richness of the creme. Jeremy's appetizer was the lobster with mushroom on a seafoam rice bed; I found the lobster slightly undercooked. My foie gras atop an apricot sauce with a wonderful basalmic reduction was lovely with the exception of the distracting charred surface of the accompanying figs. I had a lovely sweet wine to compliment the foie gras while J had a lighter, crisp white to balance the lobster. For the main meal, we went with a nice, not too complex Lemelson Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley in Oregon. They also served an intermezzo of a seared sea scallop with truffle shaves over wild mushrooms; the scallop was a beautiful golden brown color and very meaty without any briny flavor. For the main course, I had the veal cheeks which were the best I've ever had; succulent and perfectly moist and tender but not mushy and the flavors just melted aromatically in my mouth. J had the duck which was very good but not as savory or tender as the veal. J is a pastry chef by training so when we asked for two selections, they sent out four to impress him, I'm sure. The carrot cake with persimmon pieces and a Dr. Pepper ice cream was interesting but not my favorite. The mini chocolate cake was beautifully presented with a little wedge cut out to showcase the layers. I think J's favorite was the butterscotch pudding with blood oranges, although he thought the citrus didn't really do much while I liked how it cut the sweet and creamy textures and flavors of the pubbing and sauce. My favorite was their interpretation of key lime pie with huckleberries - tart and berry heaven! Some days I can't believe how lucky I am experience NYC with such great friends and great food ... until my next smelly subway ride makes me think I'm insane to live here. Until then, I'll savor this very memorable meal with a great friends over great conversation.